Isabella's Geneva

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Restaurant Reviews

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Isabella’s Estiatorio

By Phil Vettel

There’s a reason people say “God is in the details” and “The

devil is in the details.” It’s because seemingly

minor points can make the difference between a heavenly experience and

a hellish one. Case in point:

two new Fox Valley restaurants with considerable potential. Only one

is realizing it.

Isabella’s

Estiatorio is making a lot of friends in downtown Geneva, which isn’t

surprising. This restaurant is doing almost everything right and has

a refreshing eye for the details that make dining a pleasure.

Isabella’s

is Mediterranean with a strong streak of Greek, and the interior bustles

like a popular taverna. The oak bar buzzes with happy conversation;

the 110-seat dining room is an understated space with wood floors,

cream-colored walls and a few pots, urns and lamps decorating the oak-capped

half wall. It can get noisy,

as open dining rooms are wont to do.

Chef

Sean Eastwood’s menu looks obvious at first glance; the very first starter

is a quartet of spreads

(eggplant, hummus and the like) with pita, followed by mussels in tomato

broth. But the broth gets a

spark from an undercurrent of Pernod, and from that point on the selections

get more and more interesting.

Moroccan-spiced

duck, a leg-thigh portion, perches on a pile of shaved fennel root,

decorated with ruby-red grapefruit segments and pomegranate-dressed

frisee; the presentation is a bit messy, but the fragrant duck is delightful.

Another agreeable mess is the ragout of grilled calamari, tight rings

tossed with fat cannellini beans, artichoke hearts and cherry tomatoes;

dabs of oregano pesto on the plate contribute herby flavor. Bite-sized

pieces of mesquite-grilled octopus are the stars of a salad that includes

frisee greens and kalamata olives; the octopus has great texture, and

the mesquite adds an appealing smoky nuance.

What

is quickly becoming a signature entree is the pork filet, which Eastwood

brines for 24 hours in olive juice, garlic and rosemary; what emerges

is succulent meat, served in two long pieces alongside a buttery sweet-potato

gratin and Brussels sprouts, which are cut into individual petals scattered

about the plate.

The

lasagna is another distinguished dish; it’s an individual pie, more

Greek than Italian, baked and served in an earthen crock. Fresh pasta

sheets are layered with tomato sauce and a mix of ground pork, beef

and veal, crowned by a lemon-yogurt bechamel sauce, a delicious accent

that’s light and almost foamy on the tongue.

If this won’t get people off their low-carb diets, nothing will.

Seafood

offerings include pleasingly firm fillets of John Dory, draped over

pureed gigantes (think lima beans on steroids) and topped with a tablespoon

of lemony eggplant tapenade; and Ivory salmon, crusted with fennel seed

and orange zest and matched to cipollini onions and lentils in a port-wine

sauce.

Desserts

consist of Greek-accented French sweets and French-accented Greek ones.

In the former category

we have a yummy pistachio creme brulee, served out of its ramekin (the

custard set a bit firmer than usual)

on a nest of kataifi, or shredded and toasted phyllo. In the latter

is galaktoboureko, realized here as two deep-fried spring rolls stuffed

with semolina custard, glazed with Grand Marnier and paired with honey

and orange semifreddo.

Isabella’s

excellent wine list provides a range of appealing ways to wash down

the aforementioned treats. There’s good variety, and a heartening surplus

of drinkable bottles in the $30-$40 and even the $20-$30 range. The

deep-pocketed are tempted by some superior wines, but there’s also a

$35 Beckman syrah that would work nicely with many of the dishes.

Servers

discuss the menu with the zeal of newly inducted cult members; I almost

felt guilty passing up one waitress’ clearly heartfelt recommendation

(I’d had the dish on a previous visit). Bussers are on the spot with

refills and silverware changes, and one fellow assiduously crumbing

my table went after one tablecloth blemish (it was a food stain and

wasn’t going anywhere) like a modern-day Lady Macbeth.

Isabella’s

Estiatorio

Mediterranean Cafe Cuisine

330 W State St, Geneva, IL

Seasonal

ingredient-driven country Mediterranean is the concept at this Geneva

spot.

Starters include “gigantes,” giant lima beans baked with tomatoes

and basil and served

with lemon pesto, and seasonal pates served with brioche, gruyere and

cracked pepper.

Entrees include roasted quail stuffed with Swiss chard and served over

orzo and wild rice pilaf

with honey-glazed quince and quail jus, and branzino (Mediterranean

bass) with sunchoke gratin.

The wine list features 70-plus hard-to-find bottles by boutique producers

and 20 selections by the glass.

The dining room follows the Mediterranean theme with Italian tile floors,

brightly colored plates and an adjacent patio that will seat 125 in

season.

======================================================================================

ISABELLA’S

ESTIATORIO, 330 W. State St., Geneva. (630) 845-8624. Dishes burst with

flavor at this Mediterranean eatery, an elegant bistro that opened steps

away from the Fox River late last year. The menu features cuisine from

the south of France to Turkey. Highlights include the Moroccan-spiced

duck confit; chilled salmon rillette; a sampler of tzatziki, hummus,

eggplant and fish roe; sea bass with spicy tomato chutney and Dijon

and breadcrumb-encrusted filet mignon. Entrees range from $16 to $28.

Accepts major credit cards. (Reviewed 3-5-04) – D.P.

=======================================================================================

February 26, 2004

John C.

St. Charles , IL

Growing up in the Chicago Suburbs, I have visited many restaurants,

but this has got to be one of the better if not best in the area. A

great menu with dishes from all over the mediterranean and a wine list

that puts many to shame. The service I’ve had the last four times I’ve

been there has been spot-on. The owners are quite charming and remembered

me and my girlfriend on all repeat visits. I can’t say enough. Well

done.

February 07, 2004

leroy anderson

st. charles , il

bistro comfort meets four star flair. Cozy,comfy,hip and sophisticated

Isabella’s has wonderfully eclectic food and smart savvy service. A

great find out in the ‘burbs and ajoy ful time no matter how far the

drive.Try the “housemade” lasagna or the “country french”

braised short ribs, mouth watering entrees that make you think of family

meals at Grandma’s house.Go to Isabella’s for dinner and leave a part

of the family.

February 05, 2004

Suzy Greenburg

Downers Grove , Il

The staff at Isabella’s make it a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The versatile

menu offers a variety of country mediterranean-inspired creations -

and a tough choice! The scallops appetizer was so fresh and flavorful,

the olive pork is impressably creative, and the milk chocolate creme

was a delicately rich finish. Great wine list – there’s something for

everyone. Very knowledgable and attentive staff. We will visit often!

January 26, 2004

Nathan Fredrick

Chicago , IL

Full-flavored dishes that are satisfying and adventuresome, with some

lay-ups (filet) and some swishes (duck confit) that all please, including

a wide desert selection (try the port-poached pear on rice pudding).

Good service, lively atmosphere. Isabella’s food quality really can’t

be overstated. There aren’t any comparable-quality Mediterranean places

in Chicago, so if you had to stack it up against something French/New

American, think of One Sixty Blue or Blackbird. The scene at Isabella’s

is not as painfully hip as those two joints, which can be a plus. You’re

nuts not to drive out to Geneva for this one, and if you’re in the neighborhood,

stop reading this and make a reservation.

January 23, 2004

C C

Elmwood Park , Il

What a great place! The food was fantastic. No one else is doing this

type of cuisine. Try the olive brined pork- it melts in your mouth.

The wine list was filled with interesting choices at great prices. From

the time we walked in until the time we left, the service was warm and

professional. It’s our new favorite place.

January 21, 2004

Restaraunt Nut

San Francisco , CA

Full-flavored dishes that are satisfying and adventuresome, with some

lay-ups (filet) and some swishes (duck confit) that all please, including

a wide desert selection (try the port-poached pear on rice pudding).

Good service, lively atmosphere. Isabella’s food quality really can’t

be overstated. There aren’t any comparable-quality Mediterranean places

in Chicago (this cuisine is more popular in my hometown of San Francisco),

so if you had to stack it up against something French/New American,

think of One Sixty Blue or Blackbird. The scene at Isabella’s is not

as painfully hip as those two joints, which can be a plus. You’re nuts

not to drive out to Geneva for this one, and if you’re in the neighborhood,