Restaurant Reviews

Isabella’s Estiatorio


By Phil Vettel

There's a reason people say "God is in the details" and "The devil is in the details." It's because seemingly
minor points can make the difference between a heavenly experience and a hellish one. Case in point:
two new Fox Valley restaurants with considerable potential. Only one is realizing it.

Isabella's Estiatorio is making a lot of friends in downtown Geneva, which isn't surprising. This restaurant is doing almost everything right and has a refreshing eye for the details that make dining a pleasure.

Isabella's is Mediterranean with a strong streak of Greek, and the interior bustles like a popular taverna. The oak bar buzzes with happy conversation; the 110-seat dining room is an understated space with wood floors,
cream-colored walls and a few pots, urns and lamps decorating the oak-capped half wall. It can get noisy,
as open dining rooms are wont to do.

Chef Sean Eastwood's menu looks obvious at first glance; the very first starter is a quartet of spreads
(eggplant, hummus and the like) with pita, followed by mussels in tomato broth. But the broth gets a
spark from an undercurrent of Pernod, and from that point on the selections get more and more interesting.

Moroccan-spiced duck, a leg-thigh portion, perches on a pile of shaved fennel root, decorated with ruby-red grapefruit segments and pomegranate-dressed frisee; the presentation is a bit messy, but the fragrant duck is delightful. Another agreeable mess is the ragout of grilled calamari, tight rings tossed with fat cannellini beans, artichoke hearts and cherry tomatoes; dabs of oregano pesto on the plate contribute herby flavor. Bite-sized pieces of mesquite-grilled octopus are the stars of a salad that includes frisee greens and kalamata olives; the octopus has great texture, and the mesquite adds an appealing smoky nuance.

What is quickly becoming a signature entree is the pork filet, which Eastwood brines for 24 hours in olive juice, garlic and rosemary; what emerges is succulent meat, served in two long pieces alongside a buttery sweet-potato gratin and Brussels sprouts, which are cut into individual petals scattered about the plate.

The lasagna is another distinguished dish; it's an individual pie, more Greek than Italian, baked and served in an earthen crock. Fresh pasta sheets are layered with tomato sauce and a mix of ground pork, beef and veal, crowned by a lemon-yogurt bechamel sauce, a delicious accent that's light and almost foamy on the tongue.
If this won't get people off their low-carb diets, nothing will.

Seafood offerings include pleasingly firm fillets of John Dory, draped over pureed gigantes (think lima beans on steroids) and topped with a tablespoon of lemony eggplant tapenade; and Ivory salmon, crusted with fennel seed and orange zest and matched to cipollini onions and lentils in a port-wine sauce.

Desserts consist of Greek-accented French sweets and French-accented Greek ones. In the former category
we have a yummy pistachio creme brulee, served out of its ramekin (the custard set a bit firmer than usual)
on a nest of kataifi, or shredded and toasted phyllo. In the latter is galaktoboureko, realized here as two deep-fried spring rolls stuffed with semolina custard, glazed with Grand Marnier and paired with honey and orange semifreddo.

Isabella's excellent wine list provides a range of appealing ways to wash down the aforementioned treats. There's good variety, and a heartening surplus of drinkable bottles in the $30-$40 and even the $20-$30 range. The deep-pocketed are tempted by some superior wines, but there's also a $35 Beckman syrah that would work nicely with many of the dishes.

Servers discuss the menu with the zeal of newly inducted cult members; I almost felt guilty passing up one waitress' clearly heartfelt recommendation (I'd had the dish on a previous visit). Bussers are on the spot with refills and silverware changes, and one fellow assiduously crumbing my table went after one tablecloth blemish (it was a food stain and wasn't going anywhere) like a modern-day Lady Macbeth.

Isabella's Estiatorio
Mediterranean Cafe Cuisine
330 W State St, Geneva, IL

Seasonal ingredient-driven country Mediterranean is the concept at this Geneva spot.

Starters include "gigantes," giant lima beans baked with tomatoes and basil and served
with lemon pesto, and seasonal pates served with brioche, gruyere and cracked pepper.

Entrees include roasted quail stuffed with Swiss chard and served over orzo and wild rice pilaf
with honey-glazed quince and quail jus, and branzino (Mediterranean bass) with sunchoke gratin.

The wine list features 70-plus hard-to-find bottles by boutique producers and 20 selections by the glass.

The dining room follows the Mediterranean theme with Italian tile floors,
brightly colored plates and an adjacent patio that will seat 125 in season.

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ISABELLA'S ESTIATORIO, 330 W. State St., Geneva. (630) 845-8624. Dishes burst with flavor at this Mediterranean eatery, an elegant bistro that opened steps away from the Fox River late last year. The menu features cuisine from the south of France to Turkey. Highlights include the Moroccan-spiced duck confit; chilled salmon rillette; a sampler of tzatziki, hummus, eggplant and fish roe; sea bass with spicy tomato chutney and Dijon and breadcrumb-encrusted filet mignon. Entrees range from $16 to $28. Accepts major credit cards. (Reviewed 3-5-04) - D.P.

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February 26, 2004
John C.
St. Charles , IL
Growing up in the Chicago Suburbs, I have visited many restaurants, but this has got to be one of the better if not best in the area. A great menu with dishes from all over the mediterranean and a wine list that puts many to shame. The service I've had the last four times I've been there has been spot-on. The owners are quite charming and remembered me and my girlfriend on all repeat visits. I can't say enough. Well done.

February 07, 2004
leroy anderson
st. charles , il
bistro comfort meets four star flair. Cozy,comfy,hip and sophisticated Isabella's has wonderfully eclectic food and smart savvy service. A great find out in the 'burbs and ajoy ful time no matter how far the drive.Try the "housemade" lasagna or the "country french" braised short ribs, mouth watering entrees that make you think of family meals at Grandma's house.Go to Isabella's for dinner and leave a part of the family.

February 05, 2004
Suzy Greenburg
Downers Grove , Il
The staff at Isabella's make it a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The versatile menu offers a variety of country mediterranean-inspired creations - and a tough choice! The scallops appetizer was so fresh and flavorful, the olive pork is impressably creative, and the milk chocolate creme was a delicately rich finish. Great wine list - there's something for everyone. Very knowledgable and attentive staff. We will visit often!

January 26, 2004
Nathan Fredrick
Chicago , IL
Full-flavored dishes that are satisfying and adventuresome, with some lay-ups (filet) and some swishes (duck confit) that all please, including a wide desert selection (try the port-poached pear on rice pudding). Good service, lively atmosphere. Isabella's food quality really can't be overstated. There aren't any comparable-quality Mediterranean places in Chicago, so if you had to stack it up against something French/New American, think of One Sixty Blue or Blackbird. The scene at Isabella's is not as painfully hip as those two joints, which can be a plus. You're nuts not to drive out to Geneva for this one, and if you're in the neighborhood, stop reading this and make a reservation.

January 23, 2004
C C
Elmwood Park , Il
What a great place! The food was fantastic. No one else is doing this type of cuisine. Try the olive brined pork- it melts in your mouth. The wine list was filled with interesting choices at great prices. From the time we walked in until the time we left, the service was warm and professional. It's our new favorite place.

January 21, 2004
Restaraunt Nut
San Francisco , CA
Full-flavored dishes that are satisfying and adventuresome, with some lay-ups (filet) and some swishes (duck confit) that all please, including a wide desert selection (try the port-poached pear on rice pudding). Good service, lively atmosphere. Isabella's food quality really can't be overstated. There aren't any comparable-quality Mediterranean places in Chicago (this cuisine is more popular in my hometown of San Francisco), so if you had to stack it up against something French/New American, think of One Sixty Blue or Blackbird. The scene at Isabella's is not as painfully hip as those two joints, which can be a plus. You're nuts not to drive out to Geneva for this one, and if you're in the neighborhood, stop reading this and make a reservation.

January 21, 2004
Restaraunt Nut
San Francisco , CA
Full-flavored dishes that are satisfying and adventuresome, with some lay-ups (filet) and some swishes (duck confit) that all please, including a wide desert selection (try the port-poached pear on rice pudding). Good service, lively atmosphere. Isabella's food quality really can't be overstated. There aren't any comparable-quality Mediterranean places in Chicago (this cuisine is more popular in my hometown of San Francisco), so if you had to stack it up against something French/New American, think of One Sixty Blue or Blackbird. The scene at Isabella's is not as painfully hip as those two joints, which can be a plus. You're nuts not to drive out to Geneva for this one, and if you're in the neighborhood, stop reading this and make a reservation.

January 17, 2004
Michael Meyer
Chicago , IL
"Country Mediterranean" that picks the best elements of various ethnic cuisines, all with a gourmet flair. Well worth the trek from the City to Geneva--we have not had a disappointing meal yet. The entrees and the accompaniments are seasonal and therefore ultra-fresh, the service is impeccable, and the ambience is low-key elegant without feeling pompous or oppressive. One can feel equally comfortable there for a casual dinner or a special night out. Who would have thought I'd leave a restaurant raving about pureed lima beans?

January 08, 2004
e s
Wheaton , Il
Food was excellent, service was friendly and professional, and the wine selection was wonderful. The duck confit was the best we ever had and we enjoyed our salmon and pork entrees.

January 07, 2004
L Kopelares
Chicago , IL
A great addition to downtown Geneva. The food is definately worth the drive. Service is knowledgable and friendly. We will be back!

December 29, 2003
T. Garvy
Glen Ellyn , IL
A clear standout in the ever growing culinary hub of Geneva / St. Charles area. Everything about this place is top shelf. The Chef's creativity, service, wine selection and overall attention to detail. A can't miss.

December 11, 2003
Mickey D
Geneva , IL
This latest addition to the many fine restaurants sprouting up in the central Fox Valley offers a great menu, friendly servers, extensive wine list and an attractive dining room. Definitely a place to visit more than once.

November 03, 2003
A. Gardner
Chicago , IL
I went to dinner with four people and each of us had an excellent meal. Each of us enjoyed our salds/appetizers and our entrees. The wine selection was wonderful and the service was prompt, attentive and friendly. Well worth the trip from Chicago - easily one of our best meals.

October 24, 2003
Lexi OConnell
Chicago , IL
This restaurant is well worth the drive from Chicago. Wonderful dishes that you don't see even at top restaurants in Chicago.
And the chocolate "bomb" is to die for.

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USRG Anonymous Visitor, a diner
rates food atmosphere service price $50-75

Great food and service, I'll be back
From the moment we walked in and we're greated by the hostess
and I think the owner (Dean) we felt at home, comfortable and welcome.
The food and service was great, we'll definetly be back. Probably on V-day.

2/9/2004 8:32:00 AM USRG Anonymous Visitor and is not a member of the USRG.

USRG Anonymous Visitor, a diner
rates food atmosphere service price $20-30

The mesquite grilled lamb chops are to die for!

2/1/2004 12:39:00 AM USRG Anonymous Visitor and is not a member of the USRG.

1/31/2004 6:16:00 PM USRG613556's other reviews

USRG Anonymous Visitor, a diner from Geneva
rates food atmosphere service price $20-30

Wonderful food and dining experience.
This charming restaurant is well worth the drive from Chicago. The meals are supurb;
and every time we have visited Isabella's,
we have tried different entrees, appetizers and desserts,
and each dining experience has been divine.
Kudos to the chef and the warm and friendly staff and management.
Isabella's measures up to the best restaurants in Chicago.

1/23/2004 12:53:00 PM USRG Anonymous Visitor and is not a member of the USRG.